Chambray Shirts are Too Good

The perfect wear-anywhere, do-anything, everyday shirting fabric everybody loves. Let's talk about it.

Amiri Baraka ina chambray shirt, some dirty khaki work pants, navy socks, and brown suede derbies.
Amiri Baraka

No, really. You need a shirt for a first date? Chambray. A night out with the boys? Chambray. Looking good in the summer heat? Chambray. Workwear? Westernwear? Minimalist? Something a little smarter than a polo, but not an OCBD? A chambray shirt is a great everyday piece with a little extra going on, still palatable to everybody but interesting enough for nerds like me.

Like denim, chambray is made of indigo and white threads. This subtle texture is instantly noticeable, even to people who don't understand what they're looking at, as more casual and more interesting. Furthermore, indigo-dyed cotton fades as it ages, a feature that many appreciate.

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Unlike denim, Chambray is a plain weave, not a twill. This makes a few differences. It usually makes chambray lighter in color and weight, although neither is a defining feature—heavier and darker chambrays exist. It also makes chambray more open and breathable for a given weight, which makes it good for spring and summer shirting. Poplins and other plain weaves are also good for warm weather shirting, but don't come with the casual texture. Moreover, for reasons I can't explain, chambray shirts are usually just softer and more pleasant.

This has made them a historical favorite for many different purposes. Aside from basic dress shirts and button downs, chambray was famously used for work shirts, including classic French workwear and US Navy work shirts. A chambray work shirt typically has two buttoned chest patch pockets. You'll also see a few chambray western shirts, with pearl snaps instead of buttons, and other western details. Collars vary, but camp collars and tab collars aren't uncommon. And they come in short or long sleeves—I personally prefer them with a long sleeve, but both are widely beloved.

As you'll see below, chambray pairs with everything a basic blue shirt would pair with. It looks great with denim, or chinos, or fatigues, and isn't too hard to dress up a bit, like with a casual suit or knit tie. Some styles are better for workwear, some styles are better for dressing up, but all styles hit hard. Let's explore.

Jason
Nicholas
Emanuele
Elvis
Amiri
Naomi
Alex
George
Alain
Jerrod
Cary
Tim
Michael
Robert

Where to Get Chambray Shirts

Custom Options

  • Proper Cloth always works if you don't have an absurdly high budget.
  • Jake's shirts are so good.
  • The Anthology would make you one, if you want to splurge on bespoke.
  • People say Luca Avitabile is the best bespoke shirtmaker in the world.

And as a special benefit for Jerry- and Elaine-tier members, I've picked out a bunch of chambray pieces below on eBay and other places that are either very affordable, or very good. Many are both. I included shirts, outerwear, accessories... And I've found quite a few pieces for women this time, too, so that's cool.

Further Reading

Members-Only Picks

I'm going to list secondhand / one-of-one picks below, and since you can't all buy these, they're for members only.