Eveningwear makes me happy. It's tailoring that's exclusively for parties. No business: just weddings, galas, holiday parties, fancy dinner parties... It's a symbol of celebration, and here, I'm going to celebrate it.

I've collected a fair bit, and I'm not going to stop soon. So I've decided to share it in three distinct portions, increasingly creative as I go. This is the first album, and the simplest -- classic black tie.

Simple doesn't mean boring. You'll see interesting cuts below. Wonderful wool and silk and velvet. Peak and shawl lapels. Black and midnight blue. Shirts with different plackets, some with pleats. Pumps, slippers, oxfords, and maybe even a couple of pairs of loafers. I'll provide commentary, of course, but this isn't too complicated -- I'm sure you can spot some patterns on your own.

Saman Amel makes sleek, simple, beautiful suits. So take this as a start. Patent leather pumps with a grosgrain bow are the most classic option for footwear, and although you might think they're a little effeminate... so is eveningwear, all around. Don't try and hide from it. Beauty is something to embrace.
Andreas Weinås
Jonathan in his profile as one of the Rakes of the Year
Trần Khôi Nguyên
Jack Donaghy. It's after six. What is he, a farmer?
Again, Craig as Bond. Is the character a symbol of toxic masculinity? Yes. Still iconic.
Eric Cotecson, who goes by "bond__jamesbond" on Reddit. This was one of his earlier outfits... You'll see more of him in parts 2 and 3.
Brandon Mitchell
A portrait of Jay Fielden by Neleman Sebastian
Ian Finch in a shoot for Mr. Porter
Andreas Larsson of Berg and Berg on his wedding day, shot by Milad Abedi
Peter Zottolo in a shawl DB.
A Sartoria Dalcoure tux, shot for The Rake
Will in one of the only three-piece tuxes I have here. I'm not generally a huge fan of waistcoats, but I believe they look best with jackets worn open. The hint of a waistcoat feels like an unnecessary layer to me, in contrast to the hint of a scarf, which I love.
Velvet, close up, via Permanent Style
Squid Game uses tuxedos to help inform a chilling scene. Without spoilers, it helps to draw a contrast that helps illuminate the desperate class struggle at the heart of the series.
P. Johnson
Mathias le Fèvre
Logan Lee of B&Tailor in super sharp peaks.
Tony Sylvester
Are notch lapels wrong with black tie? No. They're just not ideal. (Sockless austerity brogues, flap pockets, and a red bowtie are technically all wrong, but I'll forgive it for the Polo bear).

Further Reading

Part two of my series will cover simple variations, such as white dinner jackets, colored velvet, and other separates. Part three will cover more creative interpretations of eveningwear.

The Armoury's Guides

Other Guides

Note that I won't be going over white tie... because I don't really care about it.

~ Read next post in eveningwear ~

Eveningwear Part Three: Getting Weird With It

Posted by Daniel Hakimi

9 min read